This kind of editing was an effort by the authors to present the information that they felt was most important to overall success and enjoyment of the hobby. Each of us has a different perspective. Fortunately for me, I discovered the Internet and the homebrewing discussion groups it contained. Brewing a Usenet newsgroup I soon discovered why my first beer had turned out so brilliantly clear, yet fit only for mosquitoes to lay their eggs in. As I became more experienced, and was able to brew beer that could stand proudly with any commercial offering, I realized that I was seeing new brewers on the 'Net with the same basic questions that I had.
They were reading the same books I had and some of those were excellent books. Well, I decided to write an electronic document that contained everything that a beginning brewer would need to know to get started. It contained equipment descriptions, process descriptions and some of the Why's of homebrewing.
I posted it to electronic bulletin boards and homebrewing archive computer sites such as Sierra. It was reviewed by other brewers and accepted as one of the best brewing guides available. It has been through four revisions as comments were received and I learned more about the Why's of brewing. It was written to help the first-time brewer produce a fool-proof beer - one they could be proud of.
That document has apparently served quite well, it has been requested and distributed world-wide, including Europe, North America, Australia, Africa, and Asia- the Middle East and the Far East. Probably several thousand copies have been distributed by now. Glad I could help. As time went by, and I moved on to Partial Mashes half extract, half malted grain and All-Grain Brewing, I actually saw requests on the 'Net from brewers requesting "Palmer-type" documents explaining these more complex brewing methods.
There is a lot to talk about with these methods though, and I realized that it would be best done with a book. So, here we go Oh, one more thing, I should mention that Extract Brewing should not be viewed as inferior to brewing with grain, it is merely easier. It takes up less space and uses less equipment. You can brew national competition winning beers using extracts. These methods really let you roll up your sleeves, fire up the kettles and be the inventor.
You can let the mad-scientist in you come forth, you can combine different malts and hops at will, defying conventions and conservatives, raising your creation up to the storm and calling down the lightening Hah hah HAH But I digress, thermo-nuclear brewing methods will be covered in another book.
Okay, on with the show In this first section of the book, we are going to lay the groundwork for the rest of your brewing education.
As with every new skill, it helps to learn to do things the right way the first time, rather than learning via short cuts that you will have to unlearn later on. On the other hand, when you learn how to drive, it is not necessary to learn how an internal combustion engine works.
You just need to know that it does work when you keep it supplied with air and gasoline for fuel, oil for lubrication, and water for cooling. To learn to brew beer, you don't need to learn how the yeast metabolize the malt sugars. But, you need to understand that metabolizing is what they do, and you need to understand what they need from you to get the job done. Once you understand that, you can do your part, they can do theirs, and the job should turn out right.
Once you gain some familiarity with the brewing processes, you can delve deeper into the inner workings and make your beer better. Chapter 1 - A Crash Course in Brewing, will provide an overview of the entire process for producing a beer.
Chapter 2 - Brewing Preparations, explains why good preparation, including sanitation, is important, and how to go about it. Chapter 3 - Malt Extract and Beer Kits, examines the key ingredient of do-it-yourself beer and how to use it properly. Chapter 4 - Water For Extract Brewing, cuts to the chase with a few do's and don'ts about a very complex subject.
Chapter 5 - Hops, covers the different kinds of hops, why to use them, how to use them, and how to measure them for consistency in your brewing. The last ingredient chapter in Section 1, Chapter 6 - Yeast, explains what yeast are, how to prepare them, and what they need to grow. From there, Section 1 moves into the physical processes of brewing. Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, walks you thru a typical brew day: mixing the wort, boiling it, and cooling it to prepare it for fermentation.
Chapter 8 - Fermentation, examines how the yeast ferments wort into beer so you will understand what you are trying to do, without going into excruciating detail.
Chapter 9 - Fermenting Your First Beer, does just what it says: takes what you have just learned and walks you through the practical application. Everybody wants to brew their favorite beer that they buy at the store, and it is usually a lager. Section 1 finishes with Chapter 11 - Priming and Bottling, explaining each step of how to package your five gallons of new beer into something you can really use.
It is a long section, but you will learn to brew, and brew right the first time. Later sections of the book will delve deeper into malt and malted barley so you can take more control over the ingredients, and thus, your beer. The last section, Section 4 - Recipes, Experimentation, and Troubleshooting, will give you the roadmaps, the tools, and the repair manual you need to drive this hobby to new horizons. Have Fun! If you are like me, you are probably standing in the kitchen, wanting to get started, your beer kit and equipment on the counter, wondering how long this will take and what to do first.
This book is going to teach you How To Brew, from the fundamentals to the advanced methods; you won't be confused by conflicting instructions on a beer kit, and you will have an outstanding first batch. But if you are like me, you probably want to do this right now while you have some time.
It's going to take about 3 hours, depending. So, in this first chapter, I will walk you through the steps necessary to get your first batch bubbling in the fermentor, and give you an overview of what you will do to ferment and bottle your beer. The instructions in this chapter may not explain why you are doing each step or even what you are doing. To understand the Whats and Whys of brewing, you will need to read the rest of this book.
Each of the chapters in Section I discuss the brewing steps in detail, giving you the purpose behind each step. You will know what you are doing, rather than doing it that way because "that's what it said Get the picture?
But, if you can't wait, this chapter should see you through. If you have questions about terminology or equipment, be sure to review the Glossary and Required Equipment sections via the links at the top of the page. Assemble ingredients. Gather together the ingredients for the brew. You may have purchased a brewing kit at the homebrew shop and it will contain the ingredients needed to brew a particular style of beer. A kit usually consists of malt extract, yeast, and hops.
The extract may already be "hopped" and the kit may not include any hops. If you don't have a kit, then head to a homebrew supply store and buy the ingredients outlined in the recipe here. You will notice that the recipe calls for various quantities of hops measured in AAUs. AAU stands for alpha-acid units. Briefly, an AAU is a unit obtained by multiplying the alpha-acid rating of the hop a percentage value by the weight ounces that you intend to use.
Every package of hops you buy will list the hop's alpha-acid rating. To figure out how much of a hop you will need for this recipe, just divide the AAU target by the alpha-acid percentage on your hops. See Chapter 5 - Hops, for more info. Boil water. You will need at least a gallon of sterile water for a variety of small tasks. Start by boiling about 1 gallon of water for 10 minutes and let it cool, covered, to room temperature. Clean and sanitize. It may seem strange to the first-time brewer, but probably the most important thing in brewing is good cleaning and sanitization.
Clean all equipment that will be used during the brew with a mild, unscented dish detergent, making sure to rinse well. Some equipment will need to be sanitized for use after the boiling stage. Soak all items that need to be sanitized in this bucket for 20 minutes. After soaking, dump the sanitizing solution and pour in some of the pre-boiled water for a quick rinse to remove any excess sanitizer.
Place the small spoon and the thermometer in the yeast starter jar and cover it with plastic wrap. Cover the fermentor with the lid to keep it clean. Wort is what brewers call the sweet, amber liquid extracted from malted barley that the yeast will later ferment into beer. Boil the brew water. In the brewpot, bring 2 gallons of water to a boil. Pour this water into the fermentor and leave it to cool. Now bring 3 gallons of water to boil in the brewpot. You will be boiling all of the extract in just 3 gallons and adding this concentrated wort to the water already in the fermentor to make the total 5 gallons.
See Chapter - Water for Extract Brewing, for more info. Note: If your beer kit includes some crushed specialty grain, you will need to steep that first before adding the extract. See Chapter 13 - Steeping Specialty Grain, for more info. Rehydrate the dried yeast.
Although many people skip this step with fair results, re-hydrating it assures the best results. While you are waiting for the brew water to boil, rehydrate two packets of dried ale yeast.
Cover with plastic wrap and wait 15 minutes. Next, "proof" the yeast. A microwave oven is good for this step. Allow the sugar solution to cool and then add it to the yeast jar. Cover and place in a warm area out of direct sunlight. If it just seems to sit on the bottom of the jar, then it is probably dead. Repeat the rehydration procedure with more yeast. See Chapter 6 - Yeast, for more info. Add malt extract. When the water in the brewpot is boiling, turn off the stove and stir in the malt extract.
Be sure the extract is completely dissolved if your malt extract is the dry variety, make sure there are no clumps; if the extract is syrup, make sure that none is stuck to the bottom of the pot. Next, turn the heat back on and resume the boil. Stir the wort regularly during the boil to be sure that it doesn't scorch. Add hops. If you are using unhopped extract, add the first bittering hop addition and begin timing the hour-long boil.
See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info. Watch for boilovers. As the wort boils, foam will form on the surface. This foam will persist until the wort goes through the "hot break" stage. The wort will easily boil over during this foaming stage, so stay close by and stir frequently. Blow on it and turn the heat down if it begins to boil over.
Put a few copper pennies into the pot to help prevent boilovers. See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling for more info. Add finishing hops optional. If you are using unhopped malt extract or want to add more character to hopped extract, add finishing hops during the last 15 minutes of the hour-long boil.
Shut down the boil. The boil time for extract beers depends on two things: waiting for the "hot break" See Step 8 and boiling for hop additions. In a nutshell, if you are using hopped extract without any added hops then you only need to boil through the hot break stage, about 15 minutes. With some extracts, the hot break will be very weak, and you may have little foam to begin with. If you are using hopped extract but adding flavoring or aroma hops, then you will probably want to boil for 30 minutes.
If you are using unhopped extract, then you will need to add hops for bittering and should boil for an hour. Cool the wort. To do this, immerse the pot in a cold water bath. A sink, bathtub, or a handy snowbank all work well. Be sure to keep the lid on the pot while cooling to prevent any cooling water or other potential contaminants from getting in.
See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info. Chapter 9 - Fermenting Your First Batch, walks you through the application of that science, so that from 10 ft. Pitch the yeast. Pour the rehydrated yeast solution into the fermentation bucket. Add cooled wort. Pour the cooled wort into the fermentation bucket "aggressively," so that it splashes and churns in the bucket. This action adds the oxygen yeast need for growth. This is the only time during the brewing process that you want the beer to be aerated or exposed to oxygen.
All other transfers should be done "quietly," with a sanitized siphon and very little disturbance in the flow and minimal contact with the air. If you had added hops during the boil, you can remove them during this step by pouring the wort into the fermentor through a strainer.
It is not necessary to remove the hops, however. How to Siphon When racking or bottling , you cannot start a siphon by sucking on it or you will contaminate and sour the batch with bacteria from your mouth.
All parts of the siphon racking cane, tubing, and cutoff valve or bottle filler need to be sanitized, especially the inside. After sanitizing, leave the siphon full of sanitizer and carefully place the racking cane in your beer.
Make sure the outlet is lower than the fermenter, or you will drain the sanitizer into your beer. As the sanitizer drains, it will draw the beer into the siphon and you can stop and transfer the outlet to your bottling bucket or bottles. Store the fermentor. Put the lid tightly on the fermentor and carry it to a secure location where it will be undisturbed for two weeks.
As soon as you have finished moving it, insert the airlock. Leave it alone! After about 24 hours, the airlock will be bubbling steadily, the exciting evidence of fermentation. The fermentation will proceed like this for two to four days, depending on the conditions of your fermentation.
The activity will decrease as most of the malt sugars are consumed by the yeast, though the yeast will continue to ferment the beer long after the bubbling diminishes. Leave the beer in the fermentor for a total of two weeks. Clean Up. Now is the time to wash out your brewpot and other equipment. Only use mild unscented detergents, or the cleaners recommended in Chapter 2, and rinse well.
Everything outlined below is thoroughly discussed in Chapter 11 - Priming and Bottling. Prepare your bottles. A typical 5-gallon batch requires two cases 48 of oz bottles for bottling. Thoroughly clean and sanitize the bottles before use. If you are using old bottles, check them inside for dirt or mold deposits.
They may need to be scrubbed with a bottle brush to get them really clean. Always clean first, then sanitize. Prepare your bottle caps. Bottle caps must be sanitized before use, and the best way is to soak them in sanitizing solution.
Some brewers use flip-top Groelsch style bottles. The ceramic part of the flip tops can be sanitized along with the bottles.
The rubber seals can be sanitized like the bottle caps. Prepare your priming sugar. We add a priming solution just before bottling to provide carbonation to the beer in the bottle. Cover the pan and allow it to cool. Combine beer and priming sugar. The best method for preparing the beer and priming sugar solution is to use a separate container the same size as your fermentor as a "bottling bucket.
Next, siphon the beer from the fermentor into the bottling bucket. Don't simply pour the beer into the bucket, and don't let the beer splash as you siphon it in. Instead, put the end of the siphon under the surface of the beer as it fills.
The swirling motion of the beer as it enters the bucket will be sufficient to evenly mix the priming solution into the beer without aeration. If you don't have a bottling bucket, you can gently pour the priming solution into the fermentor and gently stir it. Allow the sediment in the fermentor to settle for minutes before proceeding.
You can fill the bottles using the bottle filler attachment on your siphon. Carefully fill the bottles with the primed beer, place a sanitized bottle cap on each bottle, and crimp it using the bottle capper. At this stage it is helpful to have a friend operate the capper while you fill the bottles. Store the bottles. The bottles will take about two weeks to carbonate. The bottles will have a thin layer of yeast on the bottom.
It's been about a month, and you are ready to open your first bottle and see what kind of wonderful beer you have created. During the past two weeks, the yeast still swimming around in the beer have consumed the priming sugar, creating just enough carbon dioxide to carbonate your beer perfectly.
OK, so maybe you couldn't wait this long and you already opened a bottle. You may have noticed the beer wasn't fully carbonated or that it seemed carbonated but the bubbles had no staying power. You may have also noticed a "green" flavor.
That flavor is the sign of a young beer. The two-week "conditioning" period not only adds carbonation but also gives the beer flavors time to meld and balance out. Chill your beer. The bottled beer does not need to be stored cold. It will keep for approximately six months, depending on how well you managed to avoid exposure to oxygen during the last stage of fermentation and the bottling process. You will probably want to chill it before serving, however.
In general, the darker the beer, the warmer you serve it. Pouring your beer. To pour the beer without getting yeast in your glass, tip the bottle slowly to avoid disturbing the yeast layer on the bottom of the bottle.
With practice, you will be able to pour everything but the last quarter inch of beer without getting any yeast in your glass. Savor the flavor. Finally, take a deep draught and savor the flavor of the beer you have created. Don't rush it - there's plenty more 47 bottles, in fact. Take time to evaluate the flavor, its bitterness qualities, its sweetness, the level of carbonation.
These observations are your first steps to beer appreciation and designing your own recipes. If you want to learn more about brewing beer - how it works, why it works, and how to have fun creating your own recipes and taking on advanced techniques - then I encourage you to keep reading. The next chapters in this book will lead you through extract brewing again, but this time with more explanation. They include descriptions of the great variety of hops, yeast strains, and malts that can make each brewing session and every beer unique.
In later chapters, I will teach you how to brew beer from scratch, without extracts, using the malted barley itself. This kind of brewing really puts you in control of the final product, and many brewers find this "all-grain" type of brewing to be the most satisfying. It is my sincere hope that this book will enable you to derive the same sense of fun and enthusiasm for this hobby that I have experienced, and that it will enable you to brew some really outstanding beer.
The next chapter describes brewing preparation in more detail. Good preparation is the most important step to assuring a successful batch. Good preparation prevents nasty surprises. You don't want to be halfway through your brewing and realize that you don't have any yeast. You don't want to pour good wort into a fermentor that you forgot to clean. Cleaning and Sanitizing are part of your preparation but are the most important factors for assuring a successful batch of beer.
Lastly, there are two types of brewers- lucky and consistent. The lucky brewer will sometimes produce an outstanding batch of beer, but just as often one that is not. He brews from the seat-of-his-pants, innovating and experimenting with mixed results. The consistent brewer has more outstanding batches than poor ones. He may be an innovator and an experimenter, the difference is that he takes note of what he did and how much he did of it so that he can always learn from his results.
Good record keeping will make the difference between luck and skill. The crushed specialty grain is tied in a muslin grainbag, and the hops have been weighed and put in three separate bowls. Preparing your brewing equipment is principally a matter of cleaning and sanitizing, but organization is a part of the process too.
For each of the brewing processes, some preparation can be done to make the process work better. Consider what you are going to do: Check the Recipe - Make a shopping list of your ingredients and amounts.
Plan ahead on how you are going to measure them. Do you need extra bowls or measuring cups? Do you have good water out of the tap, or should you buy some? Equipment - Make a checklist of the equipment you will be using and note whether it needs to be sanitized or only cleaned. Don't try to clean something at the last minute just as you need it, you are inviting trouble.
Use a checklist to organize your thoughts and see if you have overlooked anything. More instruction on cleaning is given later in this chapter. The yeast should be prepared at the beginning of the brewing session if not before so you can tell if it's alive and ready to work beforehand.
If you have spent time preparing the equipment and making the wort and then you have nothing to ferment it with, you will be very disappointed. See Chapter 6 for detailed information on yeast preparation. The Boil - Weigh out your hop additions and place them in separate bowls for the different addition times during the boil.
If you are going to steep crushed specialty grain see Chapter 12 , then weigh, package and steep it before adding your extract to the boiling pot. Cooling After The Boil - If you plan to chill the wort using a water bath, i. A quick chill from boiling is necessary to help prevent infection and to generate the Cold Break in the wort. A good cold break precipitates proteins, polyphenols and beta glucans which are believed to contribute to beer instability during storage.
A good cold break also reduces the amount of chill haze in the final beer. Sanitizing - Anything that touches the cooled wort must be sanitized. This includes the fermentor, airlock, and any of the following, depending on your transfer methods: Funnel, strainer, stirring spoon and racking cane.
Sanitizing techniques are discussed later in this chapter. By taking the time to prepare for your brewday, the brewing will go smoothly and you will be less likely to forget any steps. Cleaning and sanitizing your equipment beforehand will allow you to pay more attention to your task at hand and maybe prevent a messy boilover.
Preparing your yeast by either re-hydrating and proofing or making a Starter will ensure that the afternoon's work will not have been in vain. Having your ingredients laid out and measured will prevent any mistakes in the recipe. Finally, preparing for each stage of the brewing process by having the equipment ready and the process planned out will make the whole operation simple and keep it fun. Your beer will probably benefit too. As in all things, a little preparation goes a long way to improving the end result.
Providing good growing conditions for the yeast in the beer also provides good growing conditions for other micro-organisms, especially wild yeast and bacteria.
Cleanliness must be maintained throughout every stage of the brewing process. Figure The yeast cells are the round things, the worms are bacteria. The terms clean, sanitize and sterilize are often used interchangeably, but should not be. Items may be clean but not sanitized or vice versa. Cleaning is the process of removing all the dirt and grime from a surface, thereby removing all the sites that can harbor bacteria. Cleaning is usually done with a detergent and elbow grease.
None of the sanitizing agents used by homebrewers are capable of eliminating all bacterial spores and viruses. The majority of chemical agents homebrewers use will clean and sanitize but not sterilize. However, sterilization is not necessary. Instead of worrying about sterilization, homebrewers can be satisfied if they consistently reduce these contaminants to negligible levels.
All sanitizers are meant to be used on clean surfaces. A sanitizer's ability to kill microorganisms is reduced by the presence of dirt, grime or organic material. Organic deposits can harbor bacteria and shield the surface from being reached by the sanitizer. So it is up to you to make sure the surface of the item to be sanitized is as clean as possible.
It is necessary because a dirty surface can never be a completely sanitized one. Grungy deposits can harbor bacteria that will ultimately contaminate your beer. The ability of a sanitizing agent to kill bacteria is reduced by the presence of any extra organic matter, so prior cleaning is necessary to assure complete sanitization. Several cleaning products available to the homebrewer are discussed below. Cleaning recommendations for the equipment you will be using follow. Detergents Dish and laundry detergents and cleansers should be used with caution when cleaning your brewing equipment.
These products often contain perfumes that can be adsorbed onto plastic equipment and released back into the beer. In addition, some detergents and cleansers do not rinse completely and often leave behind a film that can be tasted in the beer.
Several rinses with hot water may be necessary to remove all traces of the detergent. Detergents containing phosphates generally rinse more easily than those without, but because phosphates are pollutants, they are slowly being phased out.
A mild unscented dish washing detergent like Ivory is a good choice for most of your routine equipment cleaning needs. Only stubborn stains or burnt-on deposits will require something stronger.
Bleach Bleach is one of the most versatile cleaners available to the homebrewer. When dissolved in cold water, it forms a caustic solution that is good at breaking up organic deposits like food stains and brewing gunk.
Bleach is an aqueous solution of chlorine, chlorides and hypochlorites. These chemical agents all contribute to bleach's bactericidal and cleaning powers, but are also corrosive to a number of metals used in brewing equipment. Bleach should not be used for cleaning brass and copper because it causes blackening and excessive corrosion. Bleach can be used to clean stainless steel, but you need to be careful to prevent corrosion and pitting.
There are a few simple guidelines to keep in mind when using bleach to clean stainless steel. Do not leave the metal in contact with chlorinated water for extended periods of time no more than an hour. Fill vessels completely so corrosion does not occur at the waterline. After the cleaning or sanitizing treatment, rinse the item with boiled water and dry the item completely.
Percarbonates Sodium percarbonate is sodium carbonate i. Arm and Hammer Super Washing Soda reacted with hydrogen peroxide and it is a very effective cleaner for all types of brewing equipment. It rinses easily. Several products e. One-Step is labeled as a light cleaner and final rinse agent, and produces hydrogen peroxide in solution. Hydrogen peroxide will effectively sanitize surfaces and containers that are already clean.
As with all sanitizers, the effectiveness of hydrogen peroxide as a sanitizing agent is comprimised by organic soil. Use these cleaners according to the manufacturer's instructions, but generally use one tablespoon per gallon 4 ml per liter and rinse after cleaning.
In my opinion, percarbonate-based cleaners are the best choice for equipment cleaning, and Straight-A from Logic Inc. These products combine sodium metasilicate with the percarbonate in a stable form which increases its effectivity and prevents the corrosion of metals like copper and aluminum that strong alkaline solutions can cause.
Painters use it for washing walls because it can be rinsed away completely. The recommended usage is one tablespoon per gallon of hot water. Solutions of TSP and CTSP should not be left to soak for more than an hour because a white mineral film can sometimes deposit on glass and metal which requires an acid vinegar solution to remove.
This is not usually a problem however. Drying additives work by putting a chemical film on the items that allows them to be fully wetted by the water so droplets don't form; preventing spots. The wetting action destabilizes the proteins that form the bubbles. With the exceptions of spoons, measuring cups and wide mouth jars, it is probably best to only use automatic dishwashers for heat sanitizing, not cleaning.
Heat sanitizing is discussed later in this chapter. Oven Cleaner Commonly known as lye, sodium hydroxide NaOH is the caustic main ingredient of most heavy-duty cleaners like oven and drain cleaner. Potassium hydroxide KOH is also commonly used. Even in moderate concentrations, these chemicals are very hazardous to skin and should only be used when wearing rubber gloves and goggle-type eye protection. Spray-on oven cleaner is the safest and most convenient way to use sodium hydroxide.
Brewers often scorch the bottoms of their brewpots resulting in a black, burned wort area that is difficult to remove for fear of scouring a hole in the pot. The easiest solution is to apply oven cleaner and allow it to dissolve the stain. After the burned-on area has been removed, it is important to thoroughly rinse the area of any oven cleaner residue to prevent subsequent corrosion of the metal.
Sodium hydroxide is very corrosive to aluminum and brass. Copper and stainless steel are generally resistant. Pure sodium hydroxide should not be used to clean aluminum brewpots because the high pH causes the dissolution of the protective oxides, and a subsequent batch of beer might have a metallic taste.
Oven cleaner should not affect aluminum adversely if it is used properly. You will often hear the polypropylene referred to as "food grade plastic", though all three of these plastics are. Polypropylene is used for utensils, fermenting buckets and fittings. Polycarbonate is used for racking canes and measuring cups.
The vinyl tubing is used for siphons and the like. The main thing to keep in mind when cleaning plastics is that they may adsorb odors and stains from the cleaning products you use. Dish detergents are your best bet for general cleaning, but scented detergents should be avoided. Bleach is useful for heavy duty cleaning, but the odor can remain and bleach tends to cloud vinyl tubing. Percarbonate cleaners have the benefit of cleaning as well as bleach without the odor and clouding problems.
Dishwashers are a convenient way to clean plastic items providing that the water can get inside. Also, the heat might warp polycarbonate items. Cleaning Glass Glass has the advantage of being inert to everything you might use to clean it with. But, it is still the most easy to read textbook on brewing available. The online first edition has all the information you need to get started in this wonderful hobby, but the 4th edition has a lot more, enabling you to really take control of your beer.
Let me hear from you! If you have brewing questions or suggestions for the site, send them to john howtobrew. How to Brew By John Palmer. Featured Links. Last edited by a moderator: Oct 23, Truble Well-Known Member. Beer Snob Well-Known Member. I'm going to play around with the formatting tomorrow and will save it as a PDF, if people want a copy. Yes please. Pre-printed hardcopy is the way to go: just buy one!
It might even be cheaper than printing your own copy and Palmer will get a few bucks on the deal. A radical concept. One thing I am in the process of doing is maing a binder. It contains important charts and other things that I find very helpfull when I'm brewing.
I put the pages in plastic page protectors. I'm really enjoying doing this project actually. Joined Dec 1, Messages Reaction score I downloaded a pdf of it onto my phone a few months ago. Googled "Palmer how to brew pdf" or something like that. Took a while, but it was in there somewhere.
I don't have the link It's there a way for me to upload the file? EDIT: wow, this thread is ancient. Nice pic, BigJack. You must log in or register to reply here. Similar threads H. Hardball Mar 19, Replies 5 Views 1K. Mar 20, Rhoobarb. How to Brew by Palmer.
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